Side-slit double gauze skirt tutorial

Learn how to make your own side-slit skirt with this simple tutorial. This double gauze skirt is a summer’s daydream and I will show you exactly how I made it.

I’ve been planning this midi skirt for so long, but only yesterday I’ve got around to sewing it.

Side-slit double gauze skirt tutorial – sewing supplies

double gauze/cotton/linen/viscose fabric of your choice
sewing machine
needle
matching thread
sewing pins / sewing clips
fabric scissors / rotary cutter
iron
1/2” wide elastic

In short, here’s what you’re looking at: a 2x gathered skirt with an elasticated paper bag waist and a side slit. No pockets this time, although they could be easily added (tutorial and free pattern for in-seam pockets here).

It’s a super simple and comfortable summer skirt and I’ve had no difficulty in making it (although I made some silly mistakes along the way).

Sewing with double gauze

Double gauze is a really nice fabric to sew with and lovely to wear.

This type of fabric does have a little stretch to it, but I chose to ignore its stretchiness. Instead of seeing this property as a flaw, I figured I could use the textured look of double gauze to hide away all possible mistakes and it was a great plan.

In my opinion, double gauze can be a really forgiving fabric. While some say it’s finicky, I think it’s an easy fabric to sew with.

You can mind your own business and simply pretend you’re working with an easy-to-handle, stable fabric. In the end, any uneven stitches will become „invisible”.

As a rule, I made sure to press all my seams after sewing, to set the stitches into the fabric. After that, I simply let the crinkles do their thing.

Notes: I pre-washed my fabric before sewing and let it air-dry. Then, to remove all the wrinkles but preserve the texture, I used the iron and a small pressing cloth. That’s because my old iron won’t produce steam anymore.

But, if your iron behaves and generates steam, there’s no need for a press cloth – simply use it at a medium temp setting.

Here’s how my pretty double gauze skirt looks in motion:

Side-slit double gauze skirt tutorial

Step 1 – cut your fabric piece(s)

For this skirt, I cut a piece of fabric measuring 2 times my waist measurement & my desired length + 3 inches, to account for the paper bag waistband and a small, turned hem.

My measurements – waist 27”, hip 36”, height 5.02’ (153 cm), desired skirt length 29”
My fabric piece – 54” wide x 32” long

In my case, I used the entire width of fabric (54”) and left the selvages on, so I didn’t need to finish the edges.

If you need more than the width of fabric for your skirt, you’ll cut 2 fabric pieces and have two side seams. From that point on, you can decide if you want one or two side slits.

Step 2 – sew the side seam

I folded my fabric rectangle in half, right sides together to create a side seam, and used pins to hold the layers in place.

Afterward, I decided where I want my seam to finish and my side slit to start. Then, I marked the beginning of the slit by placing two pins at that point.

I stitched the side seam with a 1/2 inch seam allowance and stopped at my mark.

Sewing tip – ignore the textured look of the fabric and just do your best to sew a straight seam. Don’t stress over it. Backstitch.

Now’s the time to try on the skirt and check if the slit is the length you want. However, I was in a rush for no reason and forgot to do that.

Step 3 – topstitch the side slit

Now I pressed the seam open. When I got to the slit opening, I continued pressing the edges open.

Now, do you see those interfacing pieces on the slits? They are not necessary!

I don’t know what I was thinking. I must have read somewhere, some time ago, about interfacing the slits so that they don’t end up distorted somehow, but… that’s not a thing. You leave your slits as they are!

At this point, I tried on my skirt for the first time and became acutely aware that 1. I did not like my interfaced side-slit 2. I fused the interfacing before even trying on the skirt and 3. I wanted my slit higher.

So, I unstitched and tried to tear away the interfacing, but to no avail. Occasionally I’m silly like that! Oh well, I adjusted the slit anyway – half of its length is interfaced, the other is not.

Fortunately, my side slit looks good despite everything. You do not need fusible interfacing, I repeat.

A small piece of fusible interfacing is sometimes necessary to strengthen the side slit of a tight pencil skirt – but this is not the case.

Next, I stitched around the slit, starting at the hem. I topstitched both folded edges in place as close to the outer edge as possible.

I gave my seams a good press, again.

Step 4 – make the waistband

I serged the remaining raw edges (the top and the bottom of the skirt).

Then, I pressed the waistband over 1 1/2″ using not an iron, but my fingers and a sewing gauge. I pinned everything in place.

Next, I stitched around the skirt about 7/8″ below the top fold of the skirt and then again at approximately 1 1/2″ to create a 1/2” wide casing.

I left a 2” opening for the elastic.

I cut a piece of elastic about 3″ smaller than my waist measurement and used a safety pin to insert the elastic into the casing. I tried on my skirt to ensure the waist is neither too tight nor loose.

I stitched the two ends of the elastic together with a small overlap, then closed the gap I left open into the casing.