How to make a circle tulle skirt with pom poms

Looking for a fun, magical project that will make any little girl spin with joy? This red circle tulle skirt with fluffy white pom poms looks just like falling snow. It is bright, bouncy, and built for dancing at holiday parties, birthdays, or school events.

Circle skirts look fancy, but they are surprisingly simple to sew. Because both the tulle outer shell and the smooth satin lining are cut as full circles, there are no side seams to match. Paired with a comfortable elastic waistband, this entire project takes less than an afternoon to assemble.

Having owned a handmade business where I sold custom tulle skirts, I can tell you firsthand that this design is always a crowd favorite. Here is how to calculate your cuts, assemble the layers, and make your own pom pom circle tulle skirt in any size.

Circle skirt math and sizing secrets

Finding your radius with the circle formula

A circle skirt pattern looks just like a giant fabric donut. The inner circle cutout is the waist opening, and the outer edge forms the hemline.

To cut that inner hole accurately from a folded corner, you need to calculate the radius. The classic math formula is:

Radius = Circumference / 6.28 (which is 2 × π)

When making an elastic waistband skirt without zippers, your fabric waistline must be wide enough to slide smoothly over the hips. Always use the hip measurement – not the snug waist – to calculate the skirt opening.

Sizing example for a girls skirt

Here are the measurements used for this sample project (girls size 7/8):

• Skirt finished length: 16 inches
• Natural waist measurement: 23 inches
• Hip measurement: 28 inches

For a 28-inch hip circumference, the exact formula gives a radius of 4.45 inches (about 4 1/4 inches).

To give the satin lining extra room to gather and slide easily over the hips, I rounded up to a 5-inch radius, which created a roomy 32-inch waist circumference.

Tools and materials needed

DIY circle tulle skirt sewing supplies

• 2 yards of 118-inch-wide (300 cm) soft nylon or polyester tulle
• 1.5 yards of satin or silk-blend lining fabric
• 1-inch-wide knit elastic (cut to your child’s waist measurement, around 23 inches)
• White pom poms (a mix of 1/2-inch and 1-inch sizes gives great depth)
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• Standard sewing machine and fresh ballpoint or jersey needle (size 70/10)
• All-purpose matching thread
• Rotary cutter, cutting mat, and acrylic ruler (or sharp fabric scissors)
• Measuring tape and fabric marker
• Sewing pins or clips
• Large safety pin for threading elastic

Step-by-step sewing instructions

Cutting the satin lining circle

Fold your 1.5 yards of satin fabric in half lengthwise, then fold it in half crosswise so you have four layers meeting at one folded corner point.

Place your measuring tape directly on that folded corner point. Measure out your calculated radius (5 inches in this example) at several spots across the corner, marking the marks with your fabric pen. Connect the marks into a smooth curved arc.

From that waist arc, measure down your desired skirt length (16 inches) along the entire span of the fabric to mark a second, wider arc. Cut along both marked arcs. When unfolded, you will have a full fabric donut with zero side seams.

Cutting the oversized tulle circles

Fold your extra-wide (118-inch) soft tulle in half lengthwise twice, then fold it in half crosswise. This stacks the yardage into eight layers, letting you cut both full tulle skirts at the same time.

From the central folded corner, measure out your expanded radius (13 inches) and mark your waist arc. From that arc, measure down your 16-inch skirt length to draw the lower hem arc. Cut along both lines.

If you are using narrower tulle bolts (like 54-inch width), cut four half-circle panels and stitch the side seams together with a narrow seam to make two full circles.

Gathering each tulle layer individually

Do not gather the tulle circles together as one thick stack, or the gathers will clump unevenly.

Set your machine to its longest straight basting stitch (4.5 mm to 5.0 mm). Sew a continuous row of basting stitches 1/4 inch away from the waist edge of the first tulle circle. Leave long thread tails at both ends. Repeat on the second tulle circle.

Gently pull the bobbin threads to gather each circle down until its waist circumference matches the 32-inch waist opening of the satin lining.

Assembling the skirt body layers

Slip the first gathered tulle circle inside the second gathered tulle circle, aligning the gathered raw edges at the top. Run a basting stitch around the waist to baste the two tulle layers together into a single unit.

Next, slip the double tulle skirt over the right side of the satin lining circle. Align the raw waist edges, pin generously, and stitch all three layers together using a 3/8-inch seam allowance.

Sewing the elastic waistband casing

Cut a fabric strip from your leftover satin measuring 31 inches long by 4 inches wide.

Fold the strip in half with right sides together to form a loop, and stitch the short raw edges together with a 1/2-inch seam allowance to create a continuous waistband ring. Press the seam open.

Turn the waistband right side out. Pin the bottom raw edge of the waistband to the raw top edge of your assembled skirt, right sides facing each other. Stitch completely around the waistline with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

Press the seam up toward the waistband. Fold the top raw edge of the waistband under by 1/2 inch, then fold the entire waistband band over to the inside of the skirt so it encloses the seam allowance.

Pin from the outside, ensuring the folded edge on the inside barely covers your original stitch line. Stitch in the ditch from the right side to anchor the waistband casing down, leaving a 2-inch gap open at the back to thread the elastic.

Inserting the elastic

Attach a large safety pin to one end of your 1-inch elastic strip. Feed the pin through the waistband opening, working the elastic all the way around the casing without letting it twist inside.

Pull both ends of the elastic out of the opening, overlap them by 1/2 inch, and sew a secure box stitch (a square with an X through the middle) to hold them permanently. Tuck the joined elastic into the casing, stretch the waistband to distribute the gathers evenly, and topstitch the 2-inch opening closed.

Hemming the satin lining

Hang the skirt up and inspect the hem. The satin lining should sit slightly shorter than the tulle layers so it remains invisible beneath the sheer netting. Trim about 1/2 inch to 1 inch off the bottom of the satin lining if needed.

The neatest and fastest way to hem a circular satin lining is using a 3-thread rolled hem on a serger. If you are using a standard machine, use a narrow rolled hem foot or fold the raw edge up 1/4 inch, press, fold another 1/4 inch, and topstitch close to the fold.

Attaching the pom poms with hot glue

Now for the fun part: adding the snowballs! Lay the skirt out flat on your work surface.

Separate the top tulle layer from the underlying layers by sliding a piece of cardboard or wax paper underneath it so the glue does not seep through into the lower skirt.

Working with one pom pom at a time, apply a small pea-sized dot of hot glue to the back of each pom pom and press it gently onto the top tulle layer. Scatter a mix of small and large white pom poms randomly across the skirt, concentrating more near the hemline to mimic a falling snowfall effect.

If any glue strands touch the sheer netting, let them cool completely, pick them off, or dab a cotton swab dipped in acetone nail polish remover to dissolve stubborn glue spots.

Adding an optional tulle accent bow

To finish the front of the waistband, cut a tulle strip 9 inches wide by 12 inches long. Fold the edges inward to form a clean rectangle, gather the center tightly with your fingers, and wrap a narrow scrap of tulle around the middle to create a bow.

Hand-stitch the finished bow directly over the front center of the elastic waistband with a hand needle and matching thread.

Hem care and leveling tips

Why circle skirts stretch on the bias

Tulle does not fray or unravel, so the bottom edges of the tulle layers can stay raw and unfinished.

However, because a full circle skirt is cut across the straight grain, cross grain, and bias all at once, you will notice that parts of the hemline stretch downward after being worn and washed. The bias sections naturally stretch out longer than the grainline sections.

Unlike heavy wool or rayon circle skirts, lightweight nylon tulle will not drop significantly just by hanging overnight on a hanger. When the skirt hemline looks uneven after a few wears, lay the skirt flat on your cutting mat, follow the circle curve with your shears, and snip away the hanging bias points to level the hem right back up.

Making a circle tulle skirt is an absolute joy, and seeing your little one twirl around in a cloud of snow-white pom poms makes every minute at the machine worthwhile.

With a comfortable elastic waistband and durable gathered layers, this DIY piece is ready for countless dance parties and play sessions. Pick out your favorite color combination, warm up your glue gun, and enjoy sewing this festive skirt today!

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